Vendage

Each year around September or October approximately 50,000 people descend on the Burgundy region of France for the grape harvest. They are assembled into groups called "picking gangs" which typically number around 20 people. Starting at around 8:00 A.M. they pick grapes until the sun goes down for a week or so depending upon the weather, how many hectares the owner has, and the number of workers. They earn approximately 40 French Francs per hour. This may seem like slave labor, but I can honestly say I loved every minute of it. During my 3 month stay in France I worked worked the harvest for 4 different wineries. Each job varied somewhat, but for the most part I had a blast. The work is hard, however there are breaks around 9:30 A.M., noon, and late afternoon. During these breaks the wine flows freely and lots of snacks are available.

Left: I enjoy a morning break with a cup of
red wine and plenty of food.
Right: A statue of Bacchus from a nearby
village. This is the "patron saint" of the
wine industry in Burgundy and a frequent
subject of the local art.

Lunch normally lasts around 90 minutes and consists of a delicious 5 course meal. In Burgundy you begin with a drink that resembles what Americans might consider an alcoholic version of Kool-Aid made by mixing Creme de Cassis (Black Currant) or Framboise (Raspberry) with Aligote (white wine). Bread is the first course and is served throughout a meal. Next, a slice of meat pate is typically served cold with white wine (Chardonnay). The main course varies, but typical examples include homemade Burgundy beef, Cassoulet, Sausage with sauerkraut, etc. Red wine is served with the main course which is almost always Pinot Noir. A "Plateau de Fromage," or cheese plate is next passed around the table featuring 5 or so locally produced cheeses. Desert is typically homemade pie, chocolate mouse, or some other heavenly treat. Coffee is served last with an optional shot of brandy.

Above: Some of the many French people I had the pleasure of working with in Comblanchien, France.

After the harvest has been completed, a vendage party is typically held to reward the workers for their efforts. This is truly an awesome event that few foreigners get to enjoy. I was lucky enough to attend 3 such events that will forever make me dream of returning for future harvests. The French do not mess around when it comes to food and wine. A vendage party typically includes a 5 course meal, the winemaker's best vintages, various entertainment, spontaneous singing of folk songs, and all around good times.

My first vendage party was held at the residence of my main boss Jean-Marc Millot. He owns vines in some of the best Grand Cru wine areas. I spent 3 days working right next to the famed Clos Vougeot that appears on most postcards from Burgundy. Land in this area typically sells for around 1 million U.S. dollars per acre. During the party I was able to try Jean-Marc's 1992 Grand Cru Clos Vougot, which to this day is the best wine I have ever tasted. His party featured fireworks, musical performances, an incredible meal, unlimited wine, and dancing until the wee hours of the morning.

The second vendage party I attended was sheer luck. I worked one day for the Desertaux-Ferrand winery and was invited to attend their 100th anniversary. They also invited back all the winemakers and workers from harvests in the past. In all around 45 people enjoyed speeches, skits, constant singing, and an array of food and wine that seemed to never stop coming. I ate escargot, Burgundy beef, and everything that wasn't nailed down. I talked to Dutch, German, and French people all night long while sipping Champagne.